Centella Asiatica (Cica) in Skincare: Effects, Studies and Which Cica Products Suit You

Centella asiatica, known in Korea simply as "cica", is the soothing ingredient of Korean skincare: the extract of tiger grass contains triterpenes such as madecassoside and asiaticoside, which calm irritated, red and weakened skin and support the skin barrier. Cica skincare suits sensitive skin, skin after acids, retinol or sun, and works as a daily base for all skin types. This guide explains what is in the plant, what studies show and in which format centella belongs in your routine.

What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica is a creeping plant of the carrot family (Apiaceae) that grows in Asia, Africa and Madagascar. In English it is also called gotu kola or Indian pennywort, in German Tigergras, and in Korean cosmetics simply cica. It has been used in traditional Asian skincare for centuries; in cosmetics it became established through brands such as SKIN1004, which source their extract from Madagascar, because the plant grows particularly rich in triterpenes there.

On the INCI list, centella appears as Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water or in the form of its isolated actives. In the EU's CosIng database, these substances are listed as skin-conditioning ingredients.

Which actives does centella contain?

The extract's effect is mainly due to four pentacyclic triterpenes:

• Madecassoside: the best-known glycoside, readily water-soluble and the most frequently studied. In Korea it is often named on the packaging on its own ("madecassoside").
• Asiaticoside: the second glycoside, structurally similar and also responsible for the soothing effect.
• Asiatic acid and madecassic acid: the sugar-free basic forms (aglycones) of the two glycosides, more fat-soluble and more active in the skin.

In addition, there are flavonoids, amino acids and phenolic acids with antioxidant effects. An extract standardised to a fixed triterpene content is called TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica). Percentages such as "100% centella" on Korean products mean that the watery base of the formula consists of centella extract instead of water, not that the product consists of pure triterpenes.

What do studies say about soothing and the skin barrier?

For a plant extract, the body of research on centella is comparatively broad, but many studies are small or were carried out in the laboratory. Three results are particularly relevant for cosmetics:

• Hydration and barrier: in a four-week study with 25 volunteers, creams and gels with 2.5 and 5% centella extract increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss; the 5% formulations performed best (Ratz-Łyko et al., 2016).
• Soothing: in the same study, skin cared for with centella reacted less strongly in a standardised model of skin irritation. Reviews attribute this to madecassoside and asiaticoside, which dampen inflammatory messengers in skin cells (Bylka et al., 2013).
• Skin texture: a six-month study with 20 women combined 5% vitamin C with 0.1% madecassoside and found improvements in firmness, hydration and fine lines (Haftek et al., 2008). Because both actives were studied together, the share attributable to madecassoside cannot be quantified.

Important for context: in medicine, centella is studied at much higher doses and in different contexts. These results cannot be transferred to cosmetics. What cica skincare can do is what the cosmetic studies show: hydration, less irritation, a more stable barrier.

Which skin is centella suitable for?

• Sensitive skin with redness: the classic case. Centella is mild, formulated without fragrance and alcohol in most products and can be used daily.
• Skin after acids, retinol or sun: as a soothing counterweight on the evenings between exfoliation days and as a compress after a day in the sun.
• Blemish-prone skin: centella does not cause additional irritation and therefore fits into routines with BHA or azelaic acid, in which the skin is otherwise quickly overwhelmed.
• Dry skin with a weakened barrier: in combination with ceramides, panthenol and hyaluronic acid.
• Normal and oily skin: as a light, water-based foundation that does not weigh anything down.

Intolerances are rare but possible. If you are allergic to plants of the carrot family such as celery or carrot, try a new product first on a small area behind the ear. How to rebuild an irritated barrier step by step is explained in the guide to the skin barrier.

In which formats does cica skincare come?

One format is enough to start. If you only want to replace one step, begin with the toner or the ampoule; if you want to calm the whole routine, combine toner, serum and cream from the same line.

How do you combine centella with other actives?

Centella is one of the few actives that is compatible with practically everything. The most useful pairings:

• Centella + BHA or PHA: exfoliation and soothing in one step, for instance in the Toning Toner from SKIN1004 or in heartleaf BHA pads. Good for combination skin that otherwise responds to acids with redness.
• Centella + retinol: on retinol evenings, as a serum under the cream or as a cream over the retinol. The skin gets used to the active more easily.
• Centella + niacinamide: soothing plus sebum regulation and an even complexion, for example in the Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream. What exactly niacinamide does is explained in the niacinamide guide.
• Centella + ceramides and panthenol: the combination for a weakened barrier, as in the Soothing Cream with ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids.
• Centella + heartleaf: two soothing ingredients with different profiles; heartleaf additionally brings a clarifying component for blemish-prone skin. The differences are explained in the heartleaf guide.

How do you use cica products?

1. After cleansing, pat the toner onto still-damp skin with your hands or a pad. For dry or irritated skin, two to three thin layers on top of each other.
2. Serum or ampoule: pat two to three drops into face and neck and let absorb.
3. Cream to finish, with sunscreen on top in the morning.
4. For acute redness after sun or exfoliation: place two to four pads as a compress for five minutes, then pat in the liquid.

Centella has a soothing effect as soon as it is on the skin; a more stable barrier and less reactivity become apparent after two to four weeks of daily use. Where the cica step sits in the overall routine is explained in the routine guide; the Routine Builder provides a suitable selection by skin type.

What should you look out for when choosing?

• Position in the INCI list: the further forward Centella Asiatica Extract or Leaf Water appears, the higher its share. In "100%" ampoules, the extract comes first because it replaces the water.
• Isolated triterpenes: madecassoside or asiaticoside in the INCI list show that the manufacturer has dosed them deliberately; the concentrations are usually in the range of tenths of a percent, as in the studies.
• Fragrances and essential oils: for sensitive skin, products without perfume and without lavender or orange oil are the safer choice. The full INCI list is on every product page.
• Texture by skin type: gel creams for oily and combination skin, richer creams with ceramides and shea butter for dry skin.

You will find all products with centella in the centella asiatica collection; soothing skincare beyond this ingredient in the soothing collection.