Heartleaf (Houttuynia Cordata) in Skincare: Origin, Effects and How It Differs from Centella

Heartleaf is the extract of the plant Houttuynia cordata, called "eoseongcho" in Korea, and alongside centella the second major soothing ingredient of Korean skincare. It hydrates, soothes irritated skin and is particularly suited to oily, blemish-prone skin that is also sensitive. It became known through the Anua Heartleaf 77 Soothing Toner. This guide explains where the extract comes from, what it can do, how it differs from centella and in which format it fits into your routine.

Where does heartleaf come from?

Houttuynia cordata grows in damp areas of East Asia, from China via Korea to Japan and Southeast Asia. Its heart-shaped leaves give it its English name, heartleaf, and the smell of its crushed leaves gives it its Korean one: eoseongcho roughly means "fish-smell herb". In Japan it is known as dokudami and has long been drunk as a tea; in traditional Korean and Chinese care, the leaves and stems are used externally for irritated skin.

On the INCI list, the extract appears as Houttuynia Cordata Extract, less often as Houttuynia Cordata Leaf Extract or Houttuynia Cordata Leaf Water. The EU's CosIng database lists it as a skin-conditioning ingredient. Korean manufacturers often print the extract content on the packaging: "Heartleaf 77" means that 77% of the formula consists of heartleaf extract, which thus replaces water as the base.

Which actives does Houttuynia cordata contain?

The plant is well described phytochemically. Three groups of substances are particularly interesting for the skin:

• Flavonoids: quercitrin, hyperoside, quercetin, rutin and afzelin. They have an antioxidant effect and are responsible for the soothing effect in cell studies.
• Polysaccharides: long-chain sugars that bind water and form a light hydrating film on the skin.
• Essential oil: including houttuynin (decanoyl acetaldehyde), which is responsible for the smell of the fresh plant. Cosmetic extracts contain hardly any of it; finished products do not smell of fish.

What can heartleaf do in skincare?

The evidence for heartleaf comes mainly from cell cultures and reviews; there are hardly any human studies with cosmetic products so far. It is worth knowing this before attributing too much to the ingredient. What has been shown:

• Soothing: an extract with quercitrin and hyperoside dampened inflammatory messengers such as IL-6 and IL-8 triggered by UVB radiation in human skin cells (keratinocytes) and protected the cells from oxidative stress (Charachit et al., 2022).
• Antioxidant protection: fermented heartleaf extract protected keratinocytes from damage caused by UVA and hydrogen peroxide (Kwon et al., 2023).
• Hydration: the polysaccharides and the mostly watery, light texture of the products provide a hydrated skin feel without weighing the skin down. That needs no study, but no myth either: heartleaf does not replace hyaluronic acid or ceramides, it complements them.

In Korea, heartleaf is traditionally used for blemish-prone skin. In cosmetic terms, this means: the extract does not irritate, soothes redness around blemishes and combines well with BHA or niacinamide. It does not prevent or treat spots; if you have persistent skin problems, discuss your skincare with a dermatologist.

Heartleaf or centella: what is the difference?

Both ingredients soothe, but in different ways and for different skin:

Criterion	Heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata)	Centella asiatica (cica)
Active group	Flavonoids (quercitrin, hyperoside), polysaccharides	Triterpenes (madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid)
Evidence	Cell cultures, reviews	Cell cultures and small human studies on hydration and the barrier
Typical skin	oily, combination, blemish-prone, sensitive	dry, sensitive, red, weakened barrier
Product texture	light, watery, absorbs quickly	from watery to rich with ceramides
Typical partners	BHA, PHA, niacinamide, panthenol	Ceramides, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, retinol
Best-known line	Anua Heartleaf	SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella

Many Korean products combine both, such as the AXIS-Y Heartleaf My Type Calming Cream or the Celimax Heartleaf BHA Peeling Pads with heartleaf, centella and madecassoside. If you have to choose: heartleaf for shine and blemishes, centella for dryness and tightness. More on cica in the centella guide.

In which formats does heartleaf come?

• Toner: the classic. The Anua Heartleaf 77 Soothing Toner consists of 77% heartleaf extract, plus panthenol; it is suitable for all skin types and can be applied in several layers.
• Toner pads: the Anua Heartleaf 77 Toner Pad combines the same extract with PHA (gluconolactone), a mild exfoliant that loosens sebum and flakes without irritating the skin. How pads work is explained in the toner pads guide.
• Ampoule or serum: the Anua Heartleaf 80 Soothing Ampoule with 80% extract, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate as a concentrated soothing step.
• Cream: the Anua Heartleaf 70 Intense Calming Cream with 70% extract, ceramides and panthenol to finish; the Anua Heartleaf Daily Lotion is lighter.
• Cleansing: the Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil as the first step of double cleansing, plus the Heartleaf Quercetinol Cleansing Foam with 0.5% salicylic acid as the second step. For the process: double cleansing explained.
• Exfoliating pads: the Celimax Ji Woo Gae Heartleaf BHA Peeling Pads with salicylic acid, heartleaf and centella for combination skin with clogged pores.
• Sun protection: the Anua Heartleaf Silky Moisture Mild Sunscreen with SPF 50+ and hyaluronic acid, fragrance-free.

Which skin is heartleaf suitable for?

• Oily and combination skin: light textures that hydrate without increasing shine.
• Blemish-prone, sensitive skin: heartleaf soothes while BHA or azelaic acid do their work. More on this in the guide Korean skincare for blemish-prone skin.
• Red skin after acids or sun: toner or pads as a compress.
• Dry skin: works, but only with a richer cream on top; heartleaf alone does not hold in moisture.

Intolerances are rare. As with any plant extract: try a new product on a small area first, especially if you have a known pollen allergy.

How do you build heartleaf into your routine?

1. In the evening, double cleanse with a heartleaf cleansing oil and a mild foam.
2. Toner or pads on damp skin; on two to three evenings a week the BHA pads, otherwise the soothing 77 pads or the toner.
3. Ampoule or a niacinamide serum for pores and shine.
4. A light cream or lotion; in the morning, sunscreen as the last step.

The Routine Builder puts together a complete morning and evening routine for you by skin type; the order of the steps is explained in the routine guide. You will find all products with this ingredient in the heartleaf collection.

What should you look out for with heartleaf products?

• Extract content: numbers such as 70, 77 or 80 describe the extract base, not the amount of flavonoids. Between 70 and 80% the difference is small in practice; what else is in the formula matters more.
• Acids in the product: pads with PHA or BHA are exfoliants and should not be used daily on sensitive skin, even if heartleaf is included.
• Fragrance and alcohol: according to the manufacturer, the Anua Heartleaf line is fragrance-free; with other brands it is worth checking the INCI list on the product page.
• Expectations: heartleaf soothes and hydrates. Fewer blemishes come from the whole routine, not from the extract alone.